Oud Fragrances

The perfume note of Oud, also known as Agarwood, is a complex and intoxicating tapestry of sensory delight. Derived from the heartwood of Aquilaria trees, Oud is revered for its deep, rich, and uniquely resinous character. It unfolds with an intense, almost animalistic muskiness, underpinned by warm, sweet-balsamic notes and shades of smoke. Its heart is a medley of woody tones, layered with nuances of leather, incense, and a subtle whisper of spice. Despite its opulence, there's an ethereal quality to Oud, marked by a honeyed sweetness and a touch of damp, earthy forest floor. Exotic and enigmatic, the note of Oud imparts a profound depth and longevity to fragrances, making it a treasured ingredient in the world of perfumery.

Oud Fragrances

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Woods And Mosses

Aquilaria agallocha i A. malaccensis Thymelaeaceae

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Description

Commonly referred to as agarwood, oudh, or agalocha, this precious wood belongs to the Thymelaeceae plant family. The genus Aquilaria, specifically, holds around 15 species known to produce this highly valued resinous heartwood.

The Uniqueness of Agarwood (Oudh)

The aromatic heartwood, or agarwood, produced by Aquilaria species is esteemed globally. Known by various names such as aloeswood, eaglewood, gaharu, and oudh, this resinous heartwood is deemed the most expensive wood in the world. From perfumery in Arab nations to incense and traditional medicine in China, agarwood holds immense cultural significance. Its presence is also dominant in the Thymelaeceae family, encompassing other species like Aetoxylon and Gonystylus.

The Formation of Agarwood (Oudh)

The formation of agarwood is a fascinating process initiated by the tree's response to a fungal or bacterial attack. The Aquilaria tree produces a fragrant protective oil, which over time, hardens and turns dark brown to black. The agarwood's rich aroma and high value have led to its extensive cultivation in various Asian countries including Bangladesh, India, Laos, Myanmar, and Vietnam, among others.

The Many Species of Agarwood-Producing Aquilaria Trees

Approximately fifteen species of Aquilaria are known to produce the precious agarwood. Mature trees can grow up to 40 meters high and 80 centimeters in diameter. Agarwood products, which include wood chips, powder, oil, and finished goods like perfumes and incense, are particularly sought after in Middle and Far Eastern countries.

Extraction and Aging of Agarwood Oil

The oil derived from agarwood resin is extracted via hydrodistillation, steam distillation, or supercritical CO2 extraction methods. Older trees with higher resin content tend to yield superior agarwood oil, which like fine wine, improves with age. This oil, much appreciated in perfumery, provides an exquisite, woody, and balsamic scent.

Synthetic Substitutes for Agarwood

Due to the scarcity and high cost of agarwood, chemical substitutes have emerged in the perfume industry. These synthetic alternatives, despite being economical, often fall short in replicating the complex and distinctive aroma of natural agarwood oil. The scent of oud is a unique combination of woody and balsamic notes, while the synthetic version leans more towards a woody, leathery smell.

The High Cost of Agarwood (Oudh)

The pricing of agarwood products is influenced by several factors. The high cost is primarily due to the low yield from the plant material and the labor-intensive extraction method. It usually takes a minimum of 20 kg of low-quality softwood to produce just 12 ml of agarwood oil, contributing to its status as one of the most expensive woods in the world.

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