In This Article
Chocolate Note in Perfumery and Its Debut with Angel by Thierry Mugler
Chocolate, or more precisely, the cocoa bean, has been celebrated since the conquest of South America in the 16th century. Legend has it that it was Christopher Columbus who brought back the first cocoa beans, amusingly mistaking them for goat droppings! Over time, we've discovered the rich tastes offered by these cocoa beans. Yet, it wasn't until Thierry Mugler's daring venture that we started to explore what does chocolate smell like in perfumery.
Mugler's “Angel”, released in 1992, radically deviated from the traditional norms by introducing an oriental...gourmand fragrance! The perfume offers citrus top notes that segue into a fruity and exotic heart, finally settling into a deep base of vanilla, patchouli, caramel, and chocolate. This bold move not only opened the doors to a world of gourmand and sweet perfumes but also garnered a plethora of admirers for Angel, making it a grand success in women's perfumery.
The Gourmand Scent of Chocolate in Fragrance
The note of chocolate, unveiled by Angel, is now crafted in perfumery from various synthetic or natural raw materials. Chocovan and pyrazines seem to be the closest molecules to evoke the raw yet delicate scent of dark chocolate. Patchouli and tonka bean also mimic the scent of chocolate, with tonka bean hinting at almond-flavored chocolate. Additionally, musk, especially habanolide musk, is used to evoke the creaminess of white chocolate.
The note of chocolate is favored with oriental fragrances, offering gourmand or fruity facets. In 2008, the venerable Guerlain introduced "Gourmand Coquin", a gourmand perfume with strong top notes of pepper and rum, gradually revealing a heart of rose and vanilla, finally sprinkled with cocoa and chocolate notes. Fragrances like “La vie est belle L'Absolu de Parfum” by Lancôme and “Bonbon” by Viktor & Rolf skillfully play with oriental contrasts to create perfumes that are both delicious and fruity.
With its gourmand and sweet characteristics, the chocolate note adds a unique touch to sparkling, oriental, and floral compositions in perfumery. Who knows what other remarkable pairings might highlight this magnificent note? Hence, the question - what does chocolate smell like in perfumery - promises exciting and delectable answers.