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The Grape: A Multifaceted Note in Perfumery
The grape offers a range of fragrances depending on the variety, with scents that can be sweet, tangy, bitter, juicy, or pungent. Raisins can also contribute more candied notes. Despite its versatility, the grape note is infrequently used in fine perfumery. Primarily, it is found in feminine and fruity scents, such as Thierry Mugler's "Innocent Rock." In this fragrance, the grape is combined with lychee in the top notes, resulting in a surprising blend of alcoholic fruit notes with black pepper and red rose. Innocent Rock, with its rock spirit, is designed for rebellious women. Grapes express themselves best when paired with other fruits, as showcased in Shiseido's "Zen White Edition." In this fragrance, the grape is accompanied by apple, peach, lemon, and blackcurrant in the top notes, followed by floral heart notes and a base of amber and woody notes. "Zen White Edition" is a multifaceted and refreshingly jovial fragrance.
Grape and Its Association with Other Olfactory Families
Since grapes are seldom exploited in perfumery, their associations with other olfactory families remain relatively unexplored. Apart from fruity and floral notes, the grape has been successfully combined with oriental fragrances, such as in "1881 Cerruti" by Cerruti. In this fragrance, the grape serves as a heart note, harmoniously paired with olive leaf and Sicilian tangerine. The result is a luminous, velvety, and sensual floriental scent. Another remarkable combination featuring grapes is found in Serge Lutens' creation, "Fumerie Turque," a spicy-oriental fragrance belonging to the "Les Somptueux" collection. Here, the Corinthian grape is featured as a top note, accompanied by jasmine and honey. When combined with tobacco and oriental spices, the grape note contributes to a scent that evokes a story of an ancient journey.
Whether white or black, grapes are widely consumed and appreciated fruits. Synthetically reproduced grape notes are rarely used in perfumery, primarily appearing in floral and fruity fragrances. However, the grape has also demonstrated its compatibility with oriental flavors, particularly when paired with spicy notes. This versatile fruit is a fascinating addition to the world of perfumery, awaiting further exploration.