Givaudan: The mission of the Ingredients Center of Excellence in Zurich, Switzerland, is to use enzymes to develop new fragrance ingredients, and it is in this context that the Biosciences team recently created Akigalawood®, where an enzyme known as laccase has been used to transform a natural raw material into a new natural and captive fragrance compound.
The woody and peppery notes of akigalawood
Akigalawood is made from patchouli essential oil, offering both woody and peppery notes. Regarding this ingredient, the house Givaudan affirms, "This new ingredient has a profile similar to that of patchouli, combined with spicy scents of pepper and a precious nuance of agarwood." With the presence of akigalawood, the scent gradually becomes warm and woody. Akigalawood also offers mysterious tones with a subtle sparkle. Danièla Andrier, a perfumer at Givaudan at the head of great successes, adds, "It's an astonishing material that interacts with others like a chameleon. Upon contact with them, it transforms. It does not have the density and depth of natural patchouli essence. Still, it offers a completely new lightness and intensity".
Akigalawood and its implication in perfumery
Danièla Andrier has already introduced akigalawood in "Miracle of the Rose," by Prada, "Parco Palladiano V," by Bottega Veneta, and in the two fragrances of "Miu Miu," by Prada. For "Miu Miu," created in 2015, Danièla Andrier incorporated akigalawood as a base note, which delivers all its final aroma, depth, and power. Between very floral tones, such as lily of the valley, rose, or even jasmine, akigalawood finds its place. It deploys its scents which summarize both oud wood and patchouli, giving the whole an exceptional sensuality. For the moment, 14 perfumes (or eau de toilette) contain akigalawood, such as “Blackpepper”, from “Comme des Garçons” or “chrome” from Azzaro.
Imagined and set up by Givaudan laboratories, the ingredient Akigalawood was born from biochemistry. Made from patchouli essential oil, akigalawood is described as a woody, spicy and floral note at the same time. It is often identified with patchouli or even with Agarwood, to which it imbues the warm and enveloping tone. For the moment, akigalawood is little used in niche perfumery. We nevertheless find this new ingredient in a fabulous perfume from Prada, "Miu Miu."