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What is Evernyl?
For many years, oakmoss was widely used in perfumes, particularly for recreating the chypre accord. However, due to its potential allergenic properties, oakmoss is now prohibited. As a result, it is frequently substituted with a synthetic note called evernyl. In fact, evernyl is a constituent of oakmoss, which has been isolated through technological advancements. The discovery was made by the company Roure Bertrand & Dupont, and this molecule is currently available in powder form. Furthermore, evernyl has become a characteristic ingredient of the aromatic fougere fragrance family, an olfactory category specific to men's perfumery that typically revolves around the same ingredients. In this case, the blend consists of bergamot, geraniums, tonka bean, lavender, sage, and oakmoss, which is replaced by evernyl for this purpose. Evernyl, also known as Veramoss, is a highly versatile material, and every apprentice perfumer and beyond should have a place for it in their collection. However, it is important to note that synthetic evernyl will never truly replicate the softness and diffusion found in natural oakmoss.
Perfumes Based on Evernyl
Evernyl is highly appreciated for its woody tones and is often used as a base note in both feminine and masculine fragrances. Notably, the use of evernyl gained prominence when oakmoss was banned, sparking debates and forcing perfumers to find a suitable alternative for this widely used ingredient. Today, hundreds of perfumes have been developed using evernyl, such as For Her by Narciso Rodriguez, which belongs to the chypre fragrance family.
Occasionally, evernyl is also incorporated into fragrances from other olfactory families. For instance, Jo Malone's Grapefruit, a citrus scent, includes evernyl as an ingredient. More commonly, evernyl is combined with other woody and similar tones, such as cedar, guaiac wood, and fir balsam, resulting in a powerful and characterful fragrance. Lastly, it is worth mentioning that Montblanc's Legend perfume, created in 2011, has become a true emblem of Evernyl. In addition to its global success, this perfume is particularly noteworthy for its characteristic evernyl scent.
Evernyl's Role in Modern Perfumery
In modern perfumery, evernyl plays a crucial role as it allows perfumers to continue creating enchanting chypre and woody fragrances without relying on natural oakmoss. As a versatile and adaptable ingredient, evernyl provides an essential foundation for numerous perfume compositions, ensuring that the allure of these scents is not lost.
Fun Fact: The Science Behind Evernyl
Evernyl, or methyl 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoate, is a synthetic compound that mimics the characteristic scent of oakmoss. Its complex structure allows it to interact with other fragrance ingredients in a unique way, making it a valuable component in the creation of multifaceted and captivating perfumes.
Evernyl in Niche and Designer Fragrances
Both niche and designer perfumers have recognized the potential of evernyl in their creations. Its versatility and ability to enhance other notes have made it a popular choice in various fragrance compositions. From the luxurious and bold to the subtle and refined, evernyl's presence can be found across a diverse range of scents, making it a staple ingredient in the world of perfumery.
The Future of Evernyl in Perfumery
As the demand for more sustainable and hypoallergenic ingredients in perfumery continues to grow, evernyl's importance is likely to increase. Its synthetic nature and allergen-free properties make it a suitable and eco-friendly alternative to natural oakmoss, ensuring that the beloved chypre and woody accords remain a vital part of the fragrance landscape. With ongoing advancements in fragrance technology and an increasing focus on sustainability, the future of evernyl in perfumery appears promising.
