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The cultivation of the blackcurrant bud and its transformation for perfumery
Blackcurrant was for several centuries mainly used for its taste qualities than for its possible olfactory facets in perfumery. The cultivation of the blackcurrant bud is a production that has already been around a century in Burgundy, but the nose discovered it late. The perfumers of Grasse, the first to see in the cultivation of the blackcurrant bud exceptional olfactory virtues, encouraged producers to collect these blackcurrant fruits in buds on a massive scale to dedicate them to perfumes.
Today blackcurrant buds are particularly cultivated and harvested almost exclusively in Burgundy, which has made it one of its specialties. 85% of the annual production of blackcurrant buds is now dedicated to perfumers who will make it a particularly remarkable absolute in the gourmet and flowery fragrances of the moment.
Flowery and fruity scents in search of green notes
The 90s saw the appearance of new feminine fragrances created from natural raw materials, or rather natural olfactory notes because fruits are precious, for example, to be able to be used as such in perfumery. The blackcurrant bud is therefore one of the rare fruity substances in perfumery which allows not to have recourse to the synthetic molecule to exhale the perfumes. What's more, the blackcurrant bud is a totally French specialty!
Acidulous and irresistibly green and fruity, the blackcurrant bud is delightfully associated with our finest flower and gourmet juices. Its green facet propels flowers and aldehyde notes towards flowery paths where we like to embalm ourselves. Guerlain's Chamade, created in 1969, is thus one of the first flowery fragrances to offer blackcurrant buds as top notes associated with floral and then warm notes. First by Van Cleef & Arpels will propose in 1976 to decline the blackcurrant bud in heart note in order to sublimate the green and refreshing sweetness.
Then the 90s will see the famous floral fruity appearances such as Dune by Christian Dior or even the sublime bottle of Féérie by Van Cleef & Arpels and more recently a reissue of the famous Trésor by Lancôme in Trésor Edt Inédite.
As we can see, the green facet offered by the blackcurrant bud is currently essentially feminine. Yet this may seem surprising in the face of the current trend of green scents and the new freshness that are roaming the shelves of men's perfumery. Fortunately, to make us lie, Cerutti still used the blackcurrant bud in 1990 in one of his greatest hits: Cerutti 1881.