Today the hawthorn is hardly consumed any more, on the other hand the phytotherapic virtues and the delicate perfumes of its flowers inspire the creators who wanted to create a perfumed note in its delicate and powdery image to dress beautiful floral juices or delicate Orientals. .
Hawthorn: the small and venerable wild rose
If the hawthorn has many magical powers, including that of reaching absolutely canonical ages, it has been linked to many beliefs since Antiquity. The twigs of the hawthorn were used to protect themselves from the anger of the sky and would be favorite places for nesting birds ...
The hawthorn would also be linked to a Gaelic legend of May 1st where it would be necessary to hang a branch of it. here at the door of the stables and stables to prevent witch spiders from entering ...
Anyway, whether for its berries, its mysterious powers or its delicate and sweet flowery scent, hawthorn, a plant typical of our temperate climates is particularly appreciated and known to all, whatever the era. The perfumery therefore took an interest in hawthorn in order to create a flowery and voluptuous note in pretty florals.
Hawthorn notes are created in perfume thanks to anisic aldehyde and Guerlain
Hawthorn is unfortunately not a plant from which an essential oil can be extracted, so it was necessary to create from its scents a synthetic molecule that reproduces the scent both flowery and wild of the small thorny.
It seems that Guerlain was the first to use anisic aldehyde reproducing hawthorn in its perfume Après l'ondée in 1906. This pretty powdery flower wanted to recreate the particular smells of a slightly damp blooming garden just after a rain. summer. Guerlain therefore created a poetic and nuanced perfume where citrus and orange blossom fly towards the floral and powdery hearts of hawthorn of course but also of irises, violet and orchid to end in a wake. deep and vanilla with sandalwood and benzoin. “Après l'ondée” remains a great perfume appreciated by the finest noses.
The 2000s saw the return of the delicate scents of hawthorn in pretty fruity florals including Flower by Kenzo by Kenzo, Emporio Night Her by Armani or even Ocean Blue by Escada. Sometimes top note, sometimes heart note, hawthorn notes harmonize with fruits, marine notes, citrus fruits or even pink berries to offer its sweet and powdery scents. In “Beige” by Chanel, the top note of hawthorn will be associated for the first time with ylang-ylang, then with white flowers in hues of honey.
Hawthorn is therefore very comfortable in floral fragrances with many nuances as its floral and powdery facets are easy to match and particularly useful as a scent fixer. However, hawthorn also appears in certain Orientals where it is greedy and fruity while being light and vaporous against musks or patchoulis. Some woody masculine scents use hawthorn to soften the fragrances and powdery of a few flowers ...