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The Significance of Jasmine in Perfumery
With over 300 different species of jasmine, it is the jasmine grandiflorum that captivates perfumers the most. This delicate flower requires southern exposure and does not tolerate cold or wet winters. Its foliage is exquisite, and its white, star-shaped, fragile flowers are harvested at dawn, just before the sun rises. Until 1930, jasmine was the primary production in Grasse. Since 1970, this jasmine has been exclusively dedicated to Chanel. Other farms, such as Domaine de Manon, began replanting jasmine, with its production reserved for the house of Dior. Jasmine cultivation expanded to Egypt, Morocco, and India, but the scent was not quite the same as that of grandiflorum. To address the scarcity of jasmine, Dr. Édouard Demole from Firmenich developed synthetic alternatives, first with hedione and then with paradisone.
The Use of Paradisone in Perfumery
Paradisone, like jasmine, is used in all olfactory families and can be found in both masculine and feminine compositions. It is present in woody scents such as "Acqua Di Gio Essenza" by Armani, where paradisone is found in the heart note, combined with jasmine. Another woody-aromatic fragrance containing paradisone is "Pi Air" by Givenchy. Paradisone also appears in oriental-woody fragrances like "Mon Guerlain" by Guerlain, where it is paired with jasmine, and in other oriental scents like "Bikini Questa Sera" by Christian Louboutin. Paradisone is versatile and can be incorporated into various fragrances, including Eau Océane by Biotherm, Addict Noir - inspired by YSL’s Black Opium, or Pretty Girl - inspired by Good Girl by Carolina Herrera.
As an alternative to jasmine, paradisone is a potent and pure fragrant molecule that accurately represents the olfactory essence of jasmine. As such, it seamlessly integrates into various olfactory families, making it a versatile and essential ingredient in perfumery.
