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The fig notes took hold of our perfumes in the 90s to offer them the natural and so intoxicating touch of the summer gardens of the South.
The creation of fig accords or the fruity notes of the Mediterranean
There are as many possibilities for fig tree accords as perfumers are creative, that is to say! Let's start with the natural scent given off by a fig tree. The smell is powerfully sweet while being green and woody. Warm and creamy, the fig tree and its figs envelop our nostrils in sugar and wood. Thus, everyone can reproduce this sensation as they wish by using fig leaves or bark, or synthetic molecules.
Regarding the synthetic fig notes, they are as varied as the interpretations of the perfumers. We find creamy prunolide, with the smell of peach or coconut or even gamma octalactone. Coumarin plays with its powdery almond scent to recall sweet fruit. Finally, stemone and glycollieral are oriented towards the freshness of the green and milky notes of the foliage of the flowering fig tree.
So each nose can choose the scent tonality it wants to recreate from the fig tree and the fig.
The fig fragrance in all its facets!
Faced with the density and variety of the products used to create the raw material with fig tree notes, the fragrance families created around this venerable tree are numerous.
The very first perfume with fig accords was released in 1994: "Premier Figuier" by L'Artisan Parfumeur. It desires to reproduce precisely for its user the woody and fruity olfactory sensation of being in the shade of a fig tree. The notes are creamy and smooth while being invigorating and very green. In 1996, Diptyque's "Philosykos" once again created these green and creamy fig accords while adding floral notes for our greatest delight.
Then during the 2000s, the desire to recreate an entire Mediterranean garden gave the fig note a supporting role behind citrus fruits. “Un Jardin en Méditerranée” by Hermès or even “Ninfeo Moi” by Annick Goutal are multi-faceted and above all typical of Italian gardens where scents of citrus fruits, laurels and figs mingle under the rays. From the sun.
Finally, Womanity by Thierry Mugler, released in 2010, no longer puts the fig tree in the spotlight but rather the gourmet, woody and sweet fragrance of the fig. The fig mixed with the caviar note gives this sublime fragrance totally addicting sweet and savory accords while remaining natural.
Once again, the return to the natural sources of perfumery carried out since the 90s has made it possible to rediscover new raw materials until then, too little used in favor of more intoxicating notes. However, to see the growing success of these very natural notes like that of a fig tree, it is a safe bet that the creativity of the noses will certainly not stop at these fruitful tests.