Gardenia in perfumery
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What is Gardenia?
Gardenia is a flowering plant belonging to the Rubiaceae family, with approximately 250 species native to tropical regions across Africa, South Asia, Australia, and Oceania. Named after 18th-century Scottish botanist Alexander Garden, gardenia plants grow on shrubs ranging from 1 to 15 meters in height. Their dark green, glossy, and leathery leaves span 5 to 50 cm in length and 3 to 25 cm in width. The plant's flowers are typically solitary, occasionally grouped in small clusters, and are white or pale yellow. These flowers have a multitude of lobes, creating an elegant ensemble. Gardenias bloom from mid-spring to mid-summer and are known for their intense fragrance and challenging cultivation requirements. They need high humidity levels, acidic and well-drained soil to thrive. In the language of flowers, gardenias symbolize unacknowledged love and shyness. In Japan and China, they are used as dyes for clothes and food coloring. Coco Chanel, a passionate admirer of this plant, is credited with popularizing gardenias by creating a perfume inspired by them.
Gardenia in Perfumery
With a scent similar to jasmine, earning it the nickname Cape Jasmine, gardenias are highly fragrant flowers frequently used in luxury women's fragrances due to their high cost. Gardenia is often incorporated as a floral accord in the heart of essences, adding character while maintaining femininity and elegance. Its green notes also evoke tuberose. It is important to note that gardenia essential oil is not extracted directly from the flower; instead, its aroma is recreated in the laboratory using other essences. Styrallyl acetate is the most commonly used synthetic compound to accurately replicate gardenia's scent, resulting in a floral, green, fruity note with a hint of metallic touch.
Beyond its presence in the famous Chanel perfume, gardenia features as a key component in several other iconic fragrances, such as Adieu Sagesse by Jean Patou, Arabian Wood by Tom Ford, Azalée by Lalique, and Azurée by Estée Lauder.
Fun Facts About Gardenia
- Gardenias are sometimes called "Cape Jasmine" due to their resemblance in scent and appearance to jasmine flowers.
- The gardenia flower is a traditional symbol of unacknowledged love and shyness in the language of flowers.
- Coco Chanel's love for gardenias inspired her to create a perfume based on the flower, contributing to its popularity in the fragrance industry.
- Styrallyl acetate, a synthetic compound, is used to recreate the scent of gardenia in perfumery, as the essential oil is not extracted directly from the flower itself.